Mole

 

Picture Source: https://www.wandercooks.com/mexican-chicken-mole-recipe/ 

Mole is a rich and decadent dish. Mole is a savory recipe from Mexico.  The main ingredients of mole are cocoa, corn, and dried chili peppers in its preparation. These ingredients are roasted, ground together, and then are left to simmer for many hours. Mole has a long history but no one is absolutely certain of its true origins. Before colonial times, it is commonly  believed that Aztecs would serve a similar dish to mole to emperors. It was also given as an offering to the Gods. But the documented history dates back to the 17th century with the creation of mole poblano, which is most believed to be its true origin. Mole is a dish that has various versions that are from different regions throughout the country of Mexico.

As mentioned, there are different stories of how mole came to be, but it’s a story from the 17th century that is believed to be the true origin. This one story goes that about 300 years ago, mole was first made in Puebla, a city in east-central Mexico, southwest of Mexico City.  A dish was being made by a nun at the Santa Rosa convent in Puebla, for Juan de Palafox, Viceroy of New Spain and Archbishop of Puebla, who was visiting for lunch. While making the dish a piece of chocolate, or xocolati, accidentally fell into the sauce. By this time it became too late to restart the dish and the nun just decided to mix in the chocolate and serve it to the Archbishop. The Archbishop really loved the dish’s flavor. This “accident” led to many other savory dishes to be made with chocolate. Versions of dishes such as chili, tamales, enchilada sauce, posole and even tacos are made with chocolate. Some food historians argue that mole was invented through the accidental mixing of different spices. It is also noted that mole has a history dating back to Mesoamerican where it was believed to be served to Hernán Cortés, an explorer, when he arrived in Mexico, who the natives mistook for a God. The exact origins of Mole is likely to remain a mystery, with the first written Mole recipes started appearing in the early 1800’s. 

The name mole originated from the Nahuatl word mōlli which means sauce. Mōlli can be used as a generic name for different color sauces. Mole uses Mexican chocolate which has a bold flavor and rustic texture. To make Mexican, Cacao nibs are ground in a stone mill called a molino.  This gives Mexican chocolate a grainy texture.  To the paste made from the ground nibs, sugar and cinnamon is added.  Mexican chocolate also has a very distinctive bitter taste. There are many variations of Mexican Chocolate including those made with almonds, vanilla and even chilies and coffee. Mexican chocolate is used mainly for savory dishes such as Mole, not only for desserts as it is typically used elsewhere around the world. Mexican chocolate is usually made into disc shapes, similar in shape and size to hockey pucks.  Another popular use for Mexican chocolate is for Mexican Hot Chocolate.

Most mole recipes not only involve the use of chocolate but the use of different nuts, spices, chillies, herbs, and dried fruit that creates the various versions from region to region. Depending on what region you visit in Mexico, you will get a different version of the dish.  Most moles are served over some kind of meat with rice along with tortillas. The two areas that are known for their Mole are Puebla, which is in the region where Mole is said to have originated, and Oaxaca, the capital and the largest city of the Mexican state of Oaxaca. There is Mole Negro, made in the Oaxaca region. Mole Negro is a bitter sweet version, that contains more chocolate than other versions, therefore it is very silky.  Mole Coloradito, also made in the Oaxaco region, is a fruity version that is typically served with enchiladas; it has a brownish-red color. Mole Verde is a green mole that tends to be spicy and contains pumpkin seeds, cilantro, and jalapeños, giving its green color and name.  Mole Verde is great served with chicken breast or thighs. Mole Poblano, which is thought to be Mexico’s national dish, is red in color and tends to contain various dried chile flavors. This version is often served with pork or beef that has been braised for hours. Mole Amarillo, another traditional Oaxacan mole recipe, contrary to its name, is a version that doesn't have any chocolate or any dried fruit. Mole Amarillo mainly contains dried guajillo chiles and other spices and is often served with some kind of vegetable, seafood or meat. Mole Chichilo, another Oaxacan version, is a mole that is traditionally only made for special occasions such as weddings and baptisms. It is made with beef stock with dough made from corn flour which thickens the sauce. Mole Manchamanteles is a version of mole that contains chorizo, ancho chillies, pineapple, tomatoes, and Spanish sausage. Manchamanteles, which translates to “tablecloth stainer”, has a stew like finish. 

Mexico is a large country with many differing regions, each region growing different crops, and each having varying access to different spices. Therefore, there is no wrong or right way to make mole. But as expected, with so much regional pride, there is much argument about which version of mole is the best.

Mole is a dish that is served at baptisms, weddings, as well as to home guests, and even as a regular weeknight dinner.  Because of the many different versions of Mole made throughout the country of Mexico, people never seem to get tired of this savory chocolate dish. You can make spicy, sweet, savory, just whatever fits your taste. With the different versions of Mole there is not one that is the same leading to a different experience every time you try one. The popularity of Mole has spread outside of Mexico, that even Mexican food companies now sell different bottled Moles, available in markets around the world.


Bibliography:

Cocking, Lauren. “A Brief History Of Mole, Mexico's National Dish.” The Culture Trip. Nov 10, 2016. https://theculturetrip.com/north-america/mexico/articles/a-brief-history-of-mole-mexicos-national-dish/ Hall, Phil. “Holy mole.” The Guardian. March 18, 2008. https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/wordofmouth/2008/mar/19/holymole Isabel. “What is Mexican Chocolate (And How to Use it!).” Feb 2, 2020. https://www.isabeleats.com/what-is-mexican-chocolate/

“Mole” alimentarium. Accessed Nov 7, 2022. https://www.alimentarium.org/en/fact-sheet/mole Pena-Calderon, Mirtle. “The Untold Truth Of Mole.” Mash. Sept. 27, 2020. https://www.mashed.com/252832/the-untold-truth-about-mole/ 

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